Nectar of the gods. Cognac all mighty
Cognac. Such a simple word, but only up to the moment you start immersing yourself in the creation process. I have a special relationship with this drink, bet who wouldn’t if you spent your honeymoon in Cognac. I developed a deeper understanding of it there. The year 2006 was the start of our friendship – a friendship based on respect and understanding during which time stands still and, and even though much time has passed without speaking, every spoken word is special.
I visited Cognac for the first time in 2006 where I visited several cognac cellars. Here, upon tasting an 1856 eaux-de-vie and seeing those small bottles in which this elixir is poured so the masters could create wonderful blends, I understood that I had previously never really appreciated this drink. That was the trip during which I came to the understanding of how difficult, delicate, and refined the process of creating cognac truly is. That is a process, a respect, knowledge, traditions, and a marvelous flavour and aroma that pour into one glass from so many different years, harvests, and spirits. Each time I open a bottle and pour a glass of cognac, I recall the soot-covered roofs of Cognac and the damp air that holds the aroma of cognac. Perhaps the people there are calmer and more harmonious because they live in a constant mild cognac haze and euphoria (perhaps I need to move?).
All cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac
Recently, doing a book on cognac and cuisine, these memories flooded back every time I was either in Jarnac or Cognac. The air in the gated, large cellars, in which a part of the oldest barrels are held, was full of the wonderful aroma. The many cognac tastings (enjoyments) reminded me, over and over again, of just how special this drink is. It’s no wonder that angels love to hover over cognac. Who wouldn’t love to live in a mild state of euphoria with a constant smile on your face – not even having had anything to drink? Wonderful.
I am probably not the only person who feels a true respect and amazement for Cognac. Anyone, who has ever been there – in its cellars, standing next to one of the barrels – knows how the air smells and what the roofs of the town look like. Anyone, who has had read even a bit about cognac and other drinks, knows that my previously mentioned “angels’ share” (la part des anges) that evaporates into the air above Cognac is the reason for the blackened roofs. Even though the city is small, it is magical, and the main thing you should do there is enjoy the various types of cognac – in its cleanest form and in cocktails, food, and its aroma. The city of Cognac is a work of art, and, of course, the place where most cognac masters work. There is also a museum and the works of art in the museum are painted not from water or oil-based paints, but are works created from grape distillate by mixing tens and even hundreds of them into one bottle that we love and enjoy – cognac.
Located in southwestern France on a chalky earth, under which at a depth of 6‒10 m, wind long, forked grape plant root systems that give us beautiful and quality grapes. In addition, they have hot days and cool nights that dissipate the heat of the day. Regulations do not allow irrigation, making the grapes fight for their existence (chalky soil acts like a sponge, soaking up water and holding it for a long time), which is also an indicator that the grapes from Cognac are something special.
The story of cognac begun at the end of the 16th century and became more topical at the beginning of the 17th century, but became famous in the 19th century when it began to be exported. It is interesting to note that the Dutch, who craved this eaux-de-vie (“water of life”), brought it to Holland and drank it like wine by mixing it with water. Today, knowing that this wine is considered undrinkable and that eaux-de-vie itself is not all that tasty, we must assume that the Dutch had strong “insides”. But, it was safer to transport eaux-de-vie than wine, which tended to go bad and took up a lot of space in transit. This guaranteed that the planned amount was also actually transported, no matter what the proposed use (since the beginning of time, people have loved to drink, enjoy, trade, and celebrate with a glass).
Today, a total of 75,000 ha2 is home to 95 varieties of white grapes, the most famous of which is Ugni Blanc, followed by Folle Blanche and Colombard. They produce 90% of the cognac, and another 10% can be used from Jurançon Blanc, Folignan, Sémillion, Montils, Sélect, and Meslier Saint-François grapes. The wine from these grapes, as the growers themselves admit, is not particularly delicious (particularly the first two), or is even downright undrinkable, but it is a good base for a great cognac. It turns out that this region produces the world’s largest amount of white wine, and that is only logical if we consider that even reduced, it is available world-wide. There are a total of 5000 grape growers in this region, who, by law, must have a vineyard at least 20 ha2to be considered grape growers. They are divided into two groups – those who grow grapes and made cognac themselves, and those who grow grapes that are sold to those who prepare cognac.
Slightly more complicated
Cognac is brandy (all cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is cognac), prepared from eaux-de-vie in France – Charente-Maritime, Charente, and some Deux-Sèvres and Dordogne regions. French law states that to be considered cognac, the drink must adhere to very strict manufacturing criterion, and, of course, must come from the Cognac region. The region is divided into six manufacturing zones (cru):
Grande Champagne
spirits create a pleasing, strong flavour in your mouth, dominated by floral hints
Petite Champagne
tastes similar to Grande Champagne, with one difference – it has a shorter finish
Borderies
is the smallest cru in Cognac, and it spirits stand out with distinct taste and aroma, dominated by the nuances of nuts and violets
Fins Bois
spirits are heavy and sharp with a slight floral hint and fruitiness and oil. Cognac from this region is one of primary bases used by other cognac blenders
Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires
located on poorer soil than the previously mentioned regions and in terms of flavour, produce spirits with a simpler, sharper flavour that do not stand out with anything in particular – only that they age more quickly
And even more complicated
Cognac placed on the market must have a definite aging period, determined by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), but that indicates the minimal ageing time. Often, some manufacturers put much older cognac in the bottles, but others fill them with young distillates. That is why one brand of VS cognac differs from another brand of VS cognac.
***(three stars), VS (Very Special)
the youngest of all cognac – the distillate must be aged at least two years
VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale), VO, Reserve
means that the youngest distillate must be aged at least 4,5 years
XO (ExtraOld)
means that the youngest distillate must be aged at least 6,5 years
In addition to these three categories, you will also find on the bottles designations such as:
Napoleon, this means that this cognac, just like the XO, has been aged for 6,5 years, but usually falls in the category between VSOP and XO.
Extra means that the youngest distillate in the blend has been aged 6 years.
Vieux is another designation for the age category between VSOP and XO.
Hors d’âge – BNIC has determined that the minimal age for this cognac is the same as XO, but in fact, the manufacturers usually offer longer-aged cognac.
Vieille Reserve, just as Hors d’âge, is a cognac that is older than XO and is often aged much longer.
Remember, the years for counting the age begins with 1 October.
Fine?
If the label notes Fine, that means:
Grande Champagne or Fine Grande Champagne ‒ cognac blended from 100% Grande Champagne region eaux-de-vie .
Petite Champagne or Fine Petite Champagne ‒ cognac blended from 100% Petite Champagne region eaux-de-vie .
Fine Champagne ‒ cognac blended from a minimum of 50% eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne, and the remainder from Petite Champagne.
Borderies or Fine Borderies‒ cognac blended from 100% Borderies region eaux-de-vie .
Fins Bois or Fine Fins Bois‒ cognac blended from 100% Fins Bois region eaux-de-vie .
Bons Bois or Fine Bons Bois‒ cognac blended from 100% Bons Bois region eaux-de-vie .