Praise the fraise
Around the end of April, strawberries suddenly appear next to last year’s apples and pears. One by one, they arrive from bigger farmers and then appear in smaller farmer stalls. It is the same time when Easter arrives that this happens, as strawberries, no matter how expensive, do like to appear on this festive table. And then, till almost late summer, they are there, yet the peak is always May and June, when in the latter month farmers like to offer not only those that are great for eating, in cakes and desserts, but, for a better price, for boiling jams, too.
It feels almost sacred to see people buying strawberry boxes one by one at the market, debating with farmers which one to choose for the purpose intended. Some are preparing cakes, some smoothies, some jams, and some like to eat them just as they are. The whole queue waiting for their turn might involve themselves in this conversation in order to help the one in the moment of that hard choice.
Born in a country (Latvia) where strawberries have a much longer time to ripen, enhancing their flavour much more than in southern countries, one tends to believe that Latvian berries are the best. Yet, that is only after tasting the French ones, which are far from being grown in large plantations but rather in smaller farms in an organic manner. Those are the real berries of France — the ones that have a unique aroma and taste like no other. And here are some of the two varieties to look for.
Mara des Bois (my favourite) - since they are a cross between cultivated and wild strawberries, they have that slight aroma and taste of wild berries, making them perfect for dishes that do not have a very overpowering flavour. And one of those that are better to be eaten on their own rather than being cooked. That would be a waste.
Charlotte — this bright red and heart-shaped strawberry variety was created only in 2004 by a French grower association. Also one of those that have a slight touch of wild berries in taste and aroma. Available from April till almost November.
Gariguette — sweet and tart at the same time, this berry is another human creation (specifically, the French National Institute for Agricultural Research). Its name is dedicated to the street where the researcher lived (in Châteauneuf-de-Gadagne). It is very shiny, sweetly tart, and elegant, even. It is available from April to mid-June.
Ciflorette — much lighter red coloured and longer shaped strawberry from not such a recent past, as it was created in 1998. Very juicy, sweet and quite tender, that is why it is mostly available at the markets. From April to June.
Mariguette — a child born after crossing Mara des Bois and Gariguette, resulting in an orange-red long berry that is quite firm and a bit crunchy. Perfect for use in desserts and baking.
Clery — bright red and sweet, these berries are very aromatic, so they are perfect for jams and sauces and baking, as they make everything look much redder than usual.
Manila — smaller-sized, very sweet, and particularly tasting berries, created in 2005 by the nursery Marionnet. As they are very firm, they are perfect for use in jams and compotes or baking.
Cirafine — smaller to medium-sized berries, not too sweet and not too tart. Perfectly balanced, they have a deep red colour and slight acidity. Perfect for boiling in jams, baking, and making sauces.
