I remember the first meal I had with Peeter. It was, as it is always in Tallinn, a cold evening and we were heading to silent dinner. The one where you can safely go on a date with someone you have nothing to say to, because you spend the whole dinner with headphones on your ears listening to music that has been matched with the food sensation. Those who need to talk and express love to their partner take the headphones off, time to time to discuss the food, because when Peeter cooks, there is a lot to discuss.

Then came a time when Netflix did a series about Faviken, and Peeter was in it. We were proud to have met him, so we watched the entire series. So, when I had to go to Tallinn, I was looking for those great spots to “taste” and I found Kotzebue bakery on Instagram. Judging by the pictures, it was too good to be true – loaves of beautiful sourdough and home made charcuterie. Going through the feed pictures (there are not many, I saw it all, except Peeter. So, I was utterly surprised when Peeter wrote me back.

So, we went to Kotzebue. It took only 3 circles around the block to find them. It literally took “heads up and smell the air” – three rounds around the block to find him, since the amazing aroma wass there, but not Kotzebue itself. After opening the door, there it, he, she, they were. Straight from the oven, loaves of sourdough bread, cookies, home made mustard and lots of charcuterie. It was insanely good, especially the bread with buckwheat.

This place is not a shop, not a bakery, where you pop in any time of the day. The people who truly appreciate this bread just call, go, and buy. Even if you have to make three or five circles around the block, it is worth it and even good for your health, since, and believe me, you will eat that bread and by eating, I mean, not just nibble on one slice, but eat – slices and slices, topped with a good layer of butter and preferably some of their sausages.

PS. Too shy to call Peeter? Then pop in at Renard coffee and grab a sandwich made with his bread or buy some loaves or get his bead at "Chef & Butcher" in Baltijaama Turg.

* I have this wonderful person named Ellen, who I met in Estonia some years ago. She used to work for Visit Estonia and invited me to go there to write about Estonia and always took me to the exact places I like. Not just places, but places that are mine, so every time I need her advice, I ask her: “Whats new in Tallinn” and “Kotzebue - it is the best bread in Estonia” was her answer this time.

More about places not to miss here

Adress: Kotzebue 18 e, Tallinn. Instagram: @kotzebuebakerycharcuterie

Story and pictures: Signe Meirane
Camera: Sony Alpha 7s